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LAST UPDATE: Thursday October 23, 2003

BACK TO HOMEPAGE

But that was 2004. Today, thanks to an unprecedented international relief effort, Khao Lak is back. Many of the resorts washed away by the tsunami have been rebuilt, along with the area's infrastructure: financial institutions, restaurants, internet cafés, markets, shops, bars and tour operators. In fact, the only thing missing from Khao Lak are the tawdry trappings of mass tourism. One of the things that makes the Thais such a remarkable people is their ability to find the good in even the most tragic situations. In Khao Lak the silver lining of the tsunami is the fact that the beaches have been returned to the state they were ten years ago, before the tourism boom. Where once there were hotels and guesthouses now there are only sand and palm trees. The serenity of Khao Lak has returned.

For a more in-depth look at Khao Lak's resurrection, check out 'Khao Lak Wants You Back' by Scott Murray.

Activities

Khao Lak is about relaxation and serenity. You won't find jet ski rentals or noisy parasailing boats out here. Khao Lak is a place to get back to basics - swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing in the great outdoors. If all that peace and calm on the beach starts to pall head inland and be enchanted by dazzling waterfalls or arrange an elephant trek through the rainforest. Eco-tourism is on the rise in Khao Lak as residents make the most of their opportunity to start over again. Mountain biking, hiking and village homestays are parts of Khao Lak's move towards sustainable tourism.


Actual trips or activities that one can sign up for are restricted to little more than elephant trekking, visiting waterfalls or Khao Sok National Park. The latter is a two or three hour drive away, but is quite special and worthwhile for those interested in seeing primary rainforest in good condition.

Those with an adventurous streak should rent their own car or motorcycle and drive. Here are some of the places one could visit:

Tap Lamu: this is a fishing port and Thai naval base. Also, tourist boats depart from here for the Similan Islands. There is one typical Thai restaurant beside the main jetty where one can watch the passing traffic while eating or drinking.

Takua Pah: this is a typical, small Thai town, with many of the old-time wooden Chinese shophouses remaining intact alongside the more modern but less attractive concrete ones. It is not a beautiful town, but it should prove interesting for those new to Thailand. It is a short drive of about 20 kilometres north of Khao Lak.

Phang Nga town: there is a delightful, circular drive from Khao Lak to Phang Nga town and back that requires a half day or more, and preferably a map. One drives less than 10 kilometres south of Khao Lak on Route 4 to the first major intersection. Here we find Route 4 splits, and the arrows point in both directions. Both branches of this run to Phang Nga town, forming a circle. You can drive down one branch, and return on the other. The turn to the left is a smaller, prettier road that winds through valleys and mountains. The one directly south is the old, main highway and is bigger and faster. We suggest taking the winding mountain route to Phang Nga, spending whatever time you wish in that area before returning on the faster route.

There are quite a few places around Phang Nga town worth visiting, including the famous bay of towering sea mountains, something one should not miss. Follow the road signs to Phang Bay Resort at a road junction about three kilometres west of the town. Longtail boats are available at the pier adjoining the hotel, and from here one can take in the bay of spectacular mountains in the quiet of a private boat. A couple of hours out amongst the mountains should cost about 1,000 Baht. We suggest by-passing the tourist trap at James Bond Island (to which all boats will immediately take you if not told otherwise) and head past it, further out into the bay.

See our other pages on Phang Nga for more information.

The Similan Islands: this famous chain of nine small islands is directly offshore from Khao Lak, but far enough out to sea that they cannot be seen. The underwater world here is of exceptional beauty, and the Similans is now a world-renown diving destination. In the high season there are so many dive boats here and so few anchorages that boats fight for space to spend the night. There are only a few very small beaches here, and thus not many things to do here if you are not diving. The snorkelling is good, but it is a long, long way to come for that. In view of the pressure of too many people on such small areas, and the limited activities available, we are reluctant to advise visitors to go to this marine National Park other than on dive trips.

Ranong and Kaw Thaung, Myanmar: These are the Thai and Burmese frontier towns facing each other across the Ranong river, almost 200 kilometres north of Khao Lak. One can cross from Thailand into Kaw Thaung for the day without a Burmese visa and without losing your Thai visa. One takes a longtail boat from the old fishing port jetty to a small island just off the Burmese town, a few kilometres across the estuary. The boatmen take you to the Burmese immigration post where they will hold your passport till you return.

Alternatively, there is a large resort hotel with a casino, called Andaman Club, on an island adjacent to Kaw Thaung. This is Thai-owned and used mainly by wealthy Thais. But again a foreigner can cross without a visa for Myanmar. Andaman Club has its own, separate jetty with immigration post 11 kilometres north of Ranong town. Everyone in town knows how to find the large,modern Andaman Club jetty.